Casual Spring-summer 2019 Collection look : our jacket made from Holland&Sherry's fabric (Oceania lineup) combined with white linen trousers (South Pacific lineup)
Casual Spring-summer 2019 Collection look : our jacket made from Holland&Sherry’s fabric (Oceania lineup) combined with white linen trousers (South Pacific lineup)

We have mentioned in another article the steps of transformation of the materials for the realization of a tailored suit and we focus now on the essentials of the suit by addressing the different types of armors.

What is the armor of a fabric?

The weave of a fabric, is the mode of intercrossing warp and weft threads. There are three “basic” armors: the canvas (also called simple or plain weave), twill and satin. These armor forms all the tissues. The weft is the width of the fabric and the warp is the length of the fabric.

What are the characteristics of these armors?

Canvas armor

This is the oldest and most basic armor. The classic canvas weave is obtained by lifting the pair and odd threads of the chain in an alternative way in order to let the passage to the weft thread.
The woven textiles are, for example, the pick and pick, the fresco, or the mat, which you will find for your tailored suits. They can be produced from all textile fibers and have a similar backing and location. Due to this simple technique of interweaving, without the addition of spandex or without specific primer, the fabrics made in plain weave will certainly have support, may be resistant to deformation, but will be less elastic and more crumpled than in the following armor.

Toile; AtelierNA; Armures
© TextileAddict

Twill weave

For classic twill weave, the weft thread passes under one and then three other warp threads by staggering one thread at each pass. This technique shows an oblique side, more or less marked, depending on the desired effect or composition. Both sides may at first glance seem identical but the place still stands not a rising coast from left to right. This type of armor makes it possible to obtain very strong and resistant fabrics. Indeed, with a similar composition, wear will be less visible than on linen or satin weave. But above all, these characteristics give these fabrics, often called “serge”, a natural elasticity, a minimized creasing and easy maintenance. We find twill, gabardine, French twill, chevron, whipcord, and denim.

Satin weave

The weaving of the satin is performed without apparent frame, which makes a very smooth fabric. There are many satins according to the method used of intersecting threads. In any case, the place is shiny and the wrong side is dull. The satins will be soft, silky but more delicate of maintenance.
Contrary to popular belief, satin is not necessarily made from silk, but can also be made of wool, cotton, or even artificial or synthetic materials. Of course, the gloss obtained different depending on the material used. We had addressed it in our article on different material.

We can also talk about faux armor: creation of a pattern by alternating threads of different colors that can be as well in warp as weft, serge in canvas. We can talk about hound’s foot, cock or flea, Prince of Wales, double stripes, tennis stripes …

Finally, you will understand that it is from these three armors known as “fundamental” and their combinations that are manufactured many fabrics used to make your custom suit.

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