We have mentioned in the previous article the different types of armor for tailored suits and we remain this week on the essentials of the suit by addressing the specific tissues today.
What are the specific tissues?
Each fabric has its own characteristic: its origin, name, uses and properties. Through this article, we will detail, one by one, the main specific fabrics of your tailored suits.
What is flannel?
The flannel comes from Wales in the 18th century and means wool in Welsh.
Scratched on one side or both, its appearance is felted, fluffy and very soft. Ideal for winter, the flannel is famous for keeping warmth. The flannel can be 100% wool or mixed with cashmere and was originally made from carded wool. It can also be combed cotton.
Custom made flannel suits are durable, low wrinkle and water repellent. The patterns and colors possible on this fabric are very varied and can therefore adapt to all tastes.
This relatively simple woolen fabric appeared at the same time as the first mechanical looms. It is also this final step that gives a flurry look to striped flannels. They are then called “tennis stripes” since their appearance in the early twentieth century to make the first sportswear. These fabrics are punctuated with features reminiscent of chalk shots. They can be called “banker stripes” by being used for fairly traditional costumes.
Also, it symbolizes the 43 years of marriage that we call the “flannel wedding“.
What is tweed?
The tweed was traditionally Scottish, handcrafted and originally made to create work clothes. It is a woven fabric linen or twill, irregular, strongly mottled or with very marked patterns of different colors or even multicolored. Its manufacture is made from carded wool.
There are two theories about the name given to this fabric: its name comes from the Tweed river and its valley, in Scotland, where the clothes were made. Another says that the name tweed is a distortion of the Scottish word “tweel” (in English, “twill”). Tweed can be used for both jackets and coats.
This carded wool fabric is flexible, hardwearing and breathable but is still quite sturdy.
One can speak about the classic Tweed Donegal: it is spun and dyed according to an old Irish tradition. This traditional production process causes differences in length and strength.
In England, this outfit is not put in town. It goes for horse racing and hunting.
What is velvet?
Velvet was invented in China and imported to Europe, specifically in Italy in the fourteenth century through the Silk Road. As soon as it arrives in Italy, velvet is named after the Latin “villosus” which means “hairy” or “covered with hair”. Indeed, velvet is a soft and warm fabric, both resistant and comfortable. Previously, velvet was very luxurious because extremely difficult to manufacture. The velvet is in plain or twill weave composed of two distinct layers: the base is visible on the back and the hair on the other side. Smooth velvet is called velvet warp and corduroy, velvet weft because the vertical side are formed from the return of the weft thread, as mentioned in the previous article. There are several different denominations if the hair is shaved, struck, brushed or chiselled (like our range Corduroy and Moleskine Holland & Sherry). Velvet is today generally composed of cotton, but it can also be more rarely composed of silk or wool. This fabric makes tailor-made suits of any color. The velvet is as well in ceremony (smooth velvet) as with a casual outfit (corduroy).
Before being called velvet, it was known as “swan fluff“.
In addition, Hugh Hefner, the founder and American owner of Playboy Charm magazine, was a fan of custom-made velvet and satin jackets.
What is gabardine?
Gabardine originates from the word “Gabardina” in Spanish designating a protective coat in the Middle Ages. Gabardine is a very tight twill weave cotton fabric. This fabric can also be made of wool, more luxurious, but more fragile. It is water repellent, very resistant, comfortable and hardly wrinkle. In the past, garments made of gabardine were blue, green, cream or beige. Indeed, the trench coat was used by the soldiers to protect themselves from the weather, so the colors had to be dark or appropriate to camouflage themselves. Today, it is possible to find all the colors. This fabric is therefore used for trench coats and car coats. The waterproof version of the gabardine was invented by the famous Thomas Burberry in 1897. he suffered from rheumatism and was therefore in the lead to create a garment able to withstand the rain. At the time, no textile was performing in this area. It’s the inventor of the timeless Burberry trench!
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- Pick and pick: Its appearance is smooth and slightly mottled. It is used for the realization of rather formal classic tailor-made suits and is best worn during the day.
- Panama: This derivative of fairly loose canvas armor is used for in the making of summer blazers.
- Seersucker: This is a silk and cotton waffle fabric that was previously imported from India. The word seersucker comes from the Indian word “shirushaker” which means wrinkled or shriveled. The Americans will wear it during the day, it is also a summer classic in New York.
- Fresco: It is a light transparent fabric that exists in 100% wool or in wool and mohair mixes. This fabric has the particularity not to wrinkle and not to be warm; that’s one reason it’s called fresco. His touch is very dry and a bit shiny in versions made of mohair.
- Caviar: The caviar has a rather loose weave and eponymous patterns with a series of small circles very close together. This fabric is mainly offered in gray and navy blue. It is used for making formal rather formal costumes.
- Partridge-eye: This caviar-like fabric is distinguished by the size of its slightly larger patterns.
- Moleskin: Moleskin is a tightly woven cotton fabric. It is covered with a flexible coating and a flexible varnish imitating the grain of the leather with the appearance of a shaved velvet or a mole skin (which explains its name).
- Sheet: We use it for the creation of custom made coats. It is a tight fabric with a felted appearance.
- Prince of Wales: It is often a woolen fabric forming exactly squares of colors that are superimposed on window panes. It is characterized areas of Seafield County. Formerly called “Saxony”, it resists almost foolproof and the stains are relatively imperceptible.
Finally, concerning the maintenance of your tailored suits, whatever the fabric for which you opt, it is better to go to a dry cleaner to maintain it properly. In addition, take the time to brush your suit after each port and let it breathe before putting it on a hanger in your dressing room.
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