A made-to-measure jacket is made with care and all the little touches are important. This week, let’s focus on the finishes of the suit jacket.
The finishes of the jacket
The shoulder line
It is the line that follows the curve of the shoulder. At Atelier NA, it is tilted back, making it less visible for a more aesthetic look.
The head of the sleeve
The head of the sleeve is the part that joins the shoulder. Our made-to-measure jackets have a rather strong embus allowing to move the arm better.
The bottom of the sleeve
The bottom of the sleeve is the lower part of the sleeve. Here are the buttons and buttonholes. On our jackets, the sleeve is cut at an angle for better ergonomics.
This is the part where the buttons of the made-to-measure jacket are located. On our jackets, by tradition, it is possible to open them. On other jackets, the buttons are often sewn.
The reverse, often mistakenly called “collar”, had been the subject of a complete article. Our reverse is pecked by a tapping machine making micro-stitches that sew the fabric to the plastron to stiffen the collar.
The plastron / interlining
The plastron is a laminated tailor’s canvas more or less thick. It allows to give and keep the curve of the jacket to adapt perfectly to your morphology. This canvas is ironed at each step to match the front of the jacket. The plastrons we use are made from cotton, wool or horsehair.
Our interfacing is complete and we do not use thermo-bonded manufacturing.
Topstitching supports the line of the jacket. They are on slits, lapel or pocket flaps and add character to your tailored jacket. They are optional but we advise you to pick them to flatten the plastron correctly. It is also thanks to these that it is possible to recognize a tailored jacket.
The outer pockets
The outer pockets are on the front of the jacket. They are decorated with double piping and a flap can be provided.
The half-moon consists of sewing an arc at the end of the piping pockets. This brings extra strength.
The inner pockets
Like the outer pockets, the inner pockets are adorned with double piping. There are four; three on the left and one on the right which is buttoned and slightly angled for easy access.
The little Atelier NA detail: the flange! It is located at the neckline and is used to hang the jacket.
Now you know how to recognize a quality made-to-measure jacket. In addition, certain finishes are required at Atelier NA, others are recommended as an option.
You can make an appointment now in one of our 30 stores!