How do you know if a suit jacket suits you not very well but perfectly ? Are there elements to be aware of ? Here is a non-exhaustive list of the different points to check fore and foremost.
1/ Jacket length
Outstretched arms, the bottom of the jacket must arrive at the first thumb phalange. This length is of course variable according to each morphology.
Close your jacket. Try to fit your fist between your stomach and the jacket. If there is more space, the jacket is too big. If a “X” forms itself around the button, the jacket is too tight.
3/ The back
The middle of the back must be well smooth between the shoulder blades. However, there must be a little excess material behind the underarm. This is what allows you to move your arms forward. We talk about the “ease pleat”.
4/ Sleeve length
The sleeve length will be satisfying if the end of the sleeve arrives after the radius bone (the lump around your wrist). Your shirt must exceed from 0.5 to 1 centimeters. Once the arms folded, the stitching sleeve/wrist mustn’t be visible.
5/ Collar lapel
The size of the lapel depends on your morphology : do not choose a thin lapel for a wide-shouldered person. And on the contrary, do not go for a large lapel for a very slim person.
6/ Shoulder length
The sleeve cap must stop at the angle formed by the alignment of the biceps and the shoulder (see design). If too long, a pleat will appear at the extremity of the epaulet, if too short the top of the arm will be too prominent and it will induce some discomfort while moving.